The Headshok suspension fork was first introduced in 1992. It features 4 strips of needle bearings. With this design Cannondale has a system that rolls and does. This manual is intended to be used as a resource for our dealers, helping them to service the ever expanding range of Cannondale, Headshok, and coDA.

(under construction, always.) After about three years I decided to try and update this website some. The story is that I no longer own a cannondale and probably never will again, at least not a headshok equiped one. After I took apart my headshok it laid around for a while only recently putting it back together (yes about 2 years later).

I had replaced it with an ordinary fork using one of the CLC Adapters, which IMHO worked much better. However the CLC Concept page is no longer there. I do have a phone number for them and I will try an contact them to see if they are still in business I believe this website is a great asset to many people, hence the reason it is still up. I myself now maintain/own a VERY large mountain bike website so all my time is devoted to it (). I still have an open invitation for anyone that would like to take this page over, but keep it here at this URL. Headshok Accessories! Yes they do exist, companies other than Cannondale that make aftermarket accessories for Headshoks.

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Sometimes the parts are hard to find. I've been searching the net to find these parts.

Visit my page to get all the information. Ever wondered how to take apart and repair your Headshok yourself, can't never seem to find anyone that can tell you anything, nor find anything on the web about it? Once I found out through numerous sources how these shocks work I decided to share the wealth! Here I will explain how to remove, install, tear down, repair, and maintain a Cannondale Headshok. Pictures will document everything along with written explanations.

We have all heard of the tools that Cannondale makes to work on HeadShok's that are only available through your local bike shop. I have found pictures of these tools for you to look at. I myself have taken the dimensions from the Shoks and these pictures to make what tools I need to work on the shock. NOTE: You need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view all the manuals I have on this page.

If you notice some information on here that is incorrect or have any tips you think should be added, please send them my way! Full archive of all the manuals Cannondale has on their site related are contained on this site as well. To take a look at them.

Excuse if this post is inappropriate for vintage. Unfamiliar with this model. Lucky me, an unknown model year Cannondale fell upon my doorsteps. (Not exactly like that but graciously from a neighbor who sadly is no longer able to safely ride. Thats another story but I told him he's not allowed to give it up that easily.) Anyways, he called it a Trek and I was ahhh, no it says Cannondale right there in big bold letters. He replied, we'll its a trekking bike, ya know! No arguing that, its a hybrid R-300 Adventure whatever CAAD 2 HeadShok jobbie - with a plush saddle and pogo seat post.

Unfamiliar with all this stuff, what do I need to service the HeadShok? The bike is like new and all functions, but just want to be prepared for the unexpected servicing of this fork -possibly obsolete parts. Nice linear / V brakes stopping 700 x 32c rubber, room for much wider + future mudguards. Has SRAM twisties of which I might as well keep, though I'm thinking this ride needs some Midge On-ones or at least some drop bar changeout.

__________________ ● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1980 Apollo 'Legnano' ● 1981 Miyata 1000 ● 1984 Bianchi Limited ● 1984 Nishiki Landau ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Trek 600 ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Univega Nuovo Sport ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Trek 400 ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ● And a Bike to Be Named Later ●. The most important thing really is keeping that rubber boot intact. It's keeping the sliding surfaces and needle bearings/races clean. If you know what your doing all the bearings and races are replaceable, they came in a bunch of different sizes and you need a whole pile of tools to get the thing apart though. I can't recall if any specific grease was called for, but just lifting the boot up and greasing things up in there was 99% of keeping the things going. The internal damping cartridge on some models had a tendency to blow out, they will still work but just go up and down with no control.